Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Celebrating Rosh Hashana, circa 1919

       Sholom aleichem!" said Shiva Shapiro in a heavy Yiddish accent to her visitors.As she deftly stuffed cabbage leaves with rice and stewed tomatoes, and displayed other dishes she has made on her 1900 Beauty Hub coal stove, Shapiro drew her guests into her life.
       "This is 1919," she said."Last year was the end of the influenza epidemic and the end of the war to end all wars. We're a Jewish family and we're keeping kosher in our home. I don't read English, only Yiddish and Hebrew. My daughter Mollie learned about bananas at school. I think that bananas are mushy, but I take her to buy a hand of bananas for 25 cents."
       Shapiro is actually Barbara Ann Paster, one of the actors here at the Strawbery Banke restoration, a living museum in which over 350 years of Portsmouth homes,stores, churches and history have been preserved. It is in Puddle Dock, which was a decrepit neighbourhood destined to be razed under urban renewal until a campaign in the 1950s and '60s led by the town librarian saved 42 houses on 10 acres to create the museum.
       The area was first settled in 1695 by the English,who found a profusion of strawberries there. By the turn of the 20th century Italians, Irish, English, FrenchCanadians and East European Jews had come here to find work. Although most immigrants at that time settled in large cities, some settled directly in smaller towns like Portsmouth. By 1919, 152 Russian Jews made up about a quarter of the immigrant population of Puddle Dock and 18 of them were Shapiro relatives,according to the museum.
       As Shapiro, the wife of a pawnbroker with a 9-yearold daughter, Paster cooks dishes that follow the rhythm of the seasons, and the Jewish calendar.
       She may make strawberry jam for her strudel in June, or pickle cucumbers with dill from her garden,or put up Reliance peaches with brandy in August.
       For Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year, she excitedly pinched rolled-out strips of pasta dough into bowtie noodles to use with leftover kasha stuffing from her roast chicken, and made traditional honey and poppy seed cakes.
       Paster,61, has been portraying Shapiro since the Shapiro house opened in 1997."My entire life was made for this job," Paster said with a laugh."I married an Orthodox man. I'm Jewish from Russia, so I know the rules of kashrut and family purity. I am also a storyteller."
       The real Mrs Shapiro immigrated from Anapol,Ukraine, in 1904 with other family members to meet her future husband, Abraham, also from Anapol, in Portsmouth, where he went to work in a shoe factory and later became the president of Portsmouth's synagogue, Temple of Israel.
       At Strawbery Banke, visitors encounter Shiva Shapiro as a 34-year-old woman whose time is spent in her kosher kitchen with its coal stove and icebox."I get 50 pounds [23kg] of ice for 25 cents [8 baht] every other day and I can keep kosher meat for up to three days,"she said."There is hardly a time when I would need to keep it so long as there are two kosher butchers with delivery: Jacob Segal in a horse and buggy and Harry Liberson, who came here from an advertisement looking for a butcher in The Jewish Messenger out of New York and has stayed for 65 years."
       Holidays were at the centre of the Shapiro family's life, and the museum staff took great pains to ensure the historical accuracy of the foods prepared and the items the family had available.
       "To authenticate the Shapiro house," said Michelle Moon, director of education for the museum,"the curatorial staff interviewed 30 people from the neighbourhood and took pollen and seed analyses to determine what grew and was eaten in their home."
       Shapiro's grandson, Burt Wolf,75, recalls picking seed pods for poppy seed cake or filling for his grandmother's holiday strudel.
       In 1919 it was still too early for standard East European ingredients like kasha, poppy seeds and kale to be in mainstream cookbooks like "Fanny Farmer", which Mollie translated for her mother. Even Florence Greenbaum's International Jewish Cookbook (1918)had only one recipe for mohn (poppy seed) roly polys and none for kale or kasha.
       But immigrants brought seeds of their traditional foods, like yellow Ukrainian carrots, kale and parsnips.Shapiro bought harder-to-save seeds like beets in Jackson's hardware store.
       "Mr Wolf and many older immigrants told us that they ate yellow Ukrainian tomatoes, which we know Mrs Shapiro was growing in her garden," said John Forti, curator of culinary historic landscape for the museum. The red tomatoes were canned.
       Forti found a Reliance peach tree growing out of the compost pile in the Shapiro's garden. Seed catalogues from that time included climbing Russian cucumbers and Zubrinski yellow potatoes, which are planted there now.
       Stoneware crock shards found in the yard were a clue for the staff."Mrs Shapiro was putting up the food in the old style as well as using canning jars," he said."We found kale seeds in the walls of another immigrant's house."
       Jewish truck farmers in the neighbouring town of Greenland grew buckwheat for kasha, an East European staple, used at that time in America only for buckwheat pancakes.
       Recipes were handed down orally, at least in the East European immigrant communities, and they also travelled between neighbours."Whenever Camilla Pento comes to the house she points to the mandelbrot and says 'biscotti'," Shapiro said."She came to my house one day to show me how to make her biscotti. Nothing wrong with her recipe but in order for my family to eat it, we need to make it here so it's kosher. I made my mandelbrot and poppy seed cake and she her biscotti and pizzelles with a brand new pizzelle iron."
       The Sabbath and holidays were the center of Shapiro's world and they also meant a lot of work for the Shapiro matriarch. Visiting just before Rosh Hashana, the first in the Jewish High Holy Days, I spoke with Elaine Kraskar, Shapiro's great-niece,82, who was a prominent Democratic state legislator for 16 years. Kraskar remembers going with her grandparents to farms to get chickens for holidays and the Sabbath.
       "We would put them in a burlap sack and bring them to be ritually slaughtered by Mr Liberson," she said."My grandmother would singe the feathers, pluck and clean out the chickens. Everything was used. The intestines were cleaned and stuffed. We roasted chicken stuffed with kasha. Rosh Hashana was a special time,a time for families to be together."
       Although Kraskar gave the museum her grandfather's safe, a Victrola with Yiddish records, and a nightie her grandmother made for her, she couldn't give up her rolling pin or scrub board.
       "I put the scrub board up on the wall in my laundry room," she said,"to remind me how hard life was for her and how much easier it is today."NYT NEWS SERVICE
       CRISPY KALE Time:
       Adapted from the Strawbery Banke Museum 20 minutes / Serves 6 to 8 as a finger food, snack or side dish Ingredients: Preparation:
       1bunch of kale,(about 450g), cored, leaves rinsed and thoroughly dried 3 to 4 Tbsp olive or vegetable oil 3 to 4 cloves garlic, minced Kosher salt, to taste 1. Preheat oven 260กC. Meanwhile, flatten kale leaves and use the point of a knife to remove tough center ribs. Stack leaves and roll them together, then slice crosswise into chiffonade strips 1in. to 1in. wide.2. Place kale in a medium bowl. Toss with olive oil, garlic and salt, making sure leaves are well coated with oil. Spread evenly across a large baking sheet.3. Bake, tossing once or twice, until leaves are crispy but not burned, about 5 minutes.Serve as is as a finger food or snack, or top with poached eggs as a breakfast or lunch dish.
       KASHA-STUFFED ROAST CHICKEN Adapted from Elaine Kraskar Time:2 hours / Serves 6 to 8Ingredients: Preparation: 4 Tbsp chicken fat or vegetable oil, plus additional for greasing pan 3onions,1 diced and 2 coarsely chopped 1large egg 1cup dry kasha 2cups chicken broth or water 12cup diced celery 1cup sliced mushrooms, optional 2 Tbsp finely chopped fresh parsley 1 Tbsp finely chopped fresh sage 1roasting chicken,1.8kg to 2kg 3cloves garlic, minced 450g whole, unpeeled,small potatoes 3tart apples, quartered and cored 4carrots, peeled and cut into 3- to 4in.chunks 4parsnips, peeled and cut into 3- to 4in.chunks 1 Tbsp chopped fresh rosemary leaves Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1. Preheat oven to 190กC. Grease a roasting pan and set aside. In a skillet over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons of chicken fat or oil,and saute diced onion until golden. Remove from heat and set aside.2. In a small mixing bowl, beat egg lightly and stir in kasha. Mix well to coat all grains.Place a dry heavy skillet over high heat.When it is hot, add egg-coated kasha and stir with a wooden spoon to flatten it and break up any lumps. Continue to stir until egg has dried and kernels are browned and mostly separated. Add broth or water, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil.Add cooked onions, celery, mushrooms (if using), parsley and sage. Simmer, covered,stirring occasionally, until kasha is tender,about 15 minutes.3. Rub exterior of chicken with 1 tablespoon of remaining chicken fat or oil and garlic.Season with salt and pepper to taste. Stuff both cavities of chicken with kasha mixture.(Excess kasha may be baked in an ovenproof dish, during last 30 minutes of roasting time.)4. In bottom of roasting pan, combine potatoes,apples, carrots, parsnips and chopped onions.Add remaining 1 tablespoon chicken fat or oil, and rosemary, and toss well to coat.Gently place chicken on top of vegetables and bake until golden and cooked through,about 11
       2hours. To serve, carve chicken as desired and serve each portion with some of vegetables and apples.
       POPPY SEED CAKE Adapted from Strawbery Banke Museum
       Time:90 minutes / Serves 12 Ingredients: Preparation:
       1cup poppy seeds 1cup milk or soy milk 1cup (225g) unsalted butter or pareve margarine, plus more for greasing pan 2cups all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting pan 2cups sugar 3large eggs, separated 2 Tsp vanilla extract 12tsp salt 21
       2tsp baking powder Confectioners sugar, for dusting 1. In a small saucepan, combine the poppy seeds and milk. Bring to a boil, remove from heat, and allow to rest until cool, about 20 minutes.2. Preheat oven to 176กC and prepare a large loaf or tube pan by greasing it with margarine and lightly flouring the inside of the pan.3. In bowl of an electric mixer with a paddle attachment, cream together butter or margarine and sugar. Add egg yolks, vanilla, and poppy seed-milk mixture, and beat until smooth. Gradually add 2 cups flour, salt and baking powder. Mix well; remove bowl from mixer and set aside.4. Place a clean bowl in mixer, with a whisk attachment, and whisk egg whites until stiff but not dry. Gently fold into batter. Scrape into pan, and bake until a knife inserted into the cake comes out clean, about 1 hour. Cool on a rack. When cool, dust cake with confectioners sugar.

Pub fire blamed on firework

       A police investigation has concluded the Santika pub fire was sparked by a firework that ignited a flammable ceiling.
       A firework was lit as part of stage effects shortly after the turn of the 2009 new year.
       The fire spread so quickly that within about two minutes the crowded pub was completely in flames, Metropolitan Police Bureau deputy chief Likit Klinauan yesterday said after a high-level police meeting to conclude the cause of the inferno.
       Pol Maj Gen Likit cited the explana-tion of an expert from the Royal Thai Army Chemical Department on how a firework works before a final conclusion was made.
       Witnesses at the pub said they saw Sarawut Ariya, lead singer of the band Burn, holding a firework on the stage before the fire erupted.
       "We will meet the team investigating the disaster again before forwarding our findings to the court by the end of the month," Pol Maj Gen Likit said.
       The tragedy left 66 people dead and scores of other revellers injured.

SANTIKA INFERNO PROBE READY FOR PROSECUTOR

       The Metropolitan Police are ready to submit to the public prosecutor details of the Santika Pub's New Year Eve inferno, in which 66 people died and over 200 were injured.
       The prosecution is expected to take action against a number of accused, including the pub's major shareholder Wisuk Setsawat and Burn band's lead singer Saravuth Ariya.
       After the investigating team met for the final time yesterday, Metropolitan Police deputy chief Pol Maj General Likhit Klinouan said investigators' had now completed their findings on the suspects and their alleged offences.
       Among the people initially charged were Wisuk, Suriya Ritrabeu managing director of White and Brothers Co which ran the club, and the singer Saravuth. He said Suriya, who remains on the run, was a nominee of Wisuk.
       Likhit said that fireworks and special effects experts joined the meeting to examine the security camera footage on the night before the tragic incident. "The visual details the investigators had were in line with the camera footage on the day obtained from Justice Ministry's Forensic Science Institute chief Porntip Rojanasunan.
       "The investigators also considered whether Saravuth started the fire as accused, studying evidence backing their claims to ensure justice for the suspects and those who died in the fire," he said.
       Likhit said the case investigation and evidence gathering was nearly 100 per cent complete and police had strong evidence that could be explained transparently so they could take legal action against the accused.

OISHI MD TAN MAKES A SPLASH IN REAL ESTATE

       Tan Passakornnatee, Oishi Group managing director, plans several major investments in property and hospitality projects in the coming year.
       A condominium projects on Sukhumvit Road worth Bt2.5 billion will be his first investment next year, following an investment of Bt450 million to develop a luxury hotel, Villa Maroc, in Pranburi district of Prachuab Khiri Khan province three years ago. Villa Maroc will have its grand opening on Jan 1.
       Tan said he began investing his own money in property three years ago, spending between Bt2 billion and Bt3 billion to collect undeveloped land in Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Lopburi land Pranburi district.
       He said that after collecting more land, he plans to developed residences and hospitality projects from next year until 2012.
       The first project will be a condominium block worth Bt2.5 billion. Tan is in negotiations with strategic partners to develop this project.
       He has also joined with Siam Future Development to develop unused land in Chang Mai as a community mall. Investment will begin next year. Among other plans are the development of land in Lopburi province as a weekend market.
       Meanwhile, land owned by Tan on Ploenchit Road, which currently houses a Caltex petrol station, will be developed into a hotel when the petrol station's lease expires in three or four years.
       Tan also has 12 rai of land on Soi Thong Lor. Currently it is being used as a soccer field but Tan thinks it has potential for development.
       "When we decided to invest in the property business, we saw a business opportunity that was different from the kind that lures others investors, who are often drawn to in stocks or gold, or deposit their money in the bank," he said. While the returns on bank deposits are currently lower than inflation, he said, investment in land makems sense in the long term.
       "We aren't concerned solely about high return on investment. Our priorities are that our investments," he said.
       When he started to develop Villa Maroc in Pranburi, Tan spent Bt450 million on just 15 rooms. That is not a recipe for a high return on investment. But he believed in taking the long-term view that the more important goal was creating an attractive tourist destination in Pranburi district. "When tourists visit Pranburi, they have to visit Villa Maroc," was the goal.
       For his condominium project on Sukhumvit, Than is nekgotiating with a strategic partner.
       His future projects will also find require strategic partners, due to Tan's philosophyj that when it comes to business, he does not know everything.
       Tan built the Oishi Group, which manages Japanese restaurants and produces and distributes green tea under the Oishi brand, then sold a stake to beverage tycoon Charoen Siriwattanabhakdi. He still holds a stake in Oishi and remains its managing director.

Green Days are coming again

       To encourage the public to be aware of the target of 20 percent emissions reduction by 2020, the EU is organising activities during EU Green Days at different venues around Bangkok from October 1 to 10.
       The activities include exhibitions,concerts, workshops and talks. Artists such as Tata Young, Tattoo Colour,Richman Toy and Yarinda Bunnag will perform in "What on Earth!" concerts, held at Club Culture on October 2 and Zen CentralWorld on October 3.Children's workshops on how to tackle climate change will be held at TK Park on October 3.
       A talk on "Towards Copenhagen:View on the Global Climate Negotiations' will be held on October 6 at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and "Climate Change and Disasters: How to reduce risk?" will be held on October 7 at the Foreign Correspondents' Club of Thailand."Green Business and Effects in Supply Chains" for business entrepreneurs will be held on October 8 at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel.
       Climate change exhibitions will be held at CentralWorld throughout the event.
       Most of the activities are free of charge,but some talks are by invitation only.Visit www.eugreendays.com.

Sunday, September 20, 2009

WHERE TO FIND FABULOUS FOOD

       Thailand's Eastern coast is dotted with vacation spots that everyone knows - for example, Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Koh Chang in Trat province. When you decide to head to one of them for some time at the beach, the usual practice is to stick to the main roads and waste no time so you can get there in a hurry.
       SHELL GAME: A vendor sells fresh crabs at Nong Mon market, clockwise from above, local ‘seekoon’ fish, ‘khao tom pla’, and fresh shrimp pickled in ‘nam pla’, or fish sauce.
       But if it is food rather than beach time you are interested in, there is no need to go so far, and you can take your time.
       A leisurely drive to Chon Buri followed by some exploring along the smaller back roads and inside Ang Sila will turn up plenty of interesting delicacies.
       Today, I would like to focus just on fresh and dried foods and other edibles that are available not far from Bang Saen. Let's start with the route leading into Bang Saen.
       Before you arrive at Chon Buri city, you will come to a major intersection with traffic lights, the Bang Sai three-way intersection. Take a right turn there onto the road that leads to Bang Saen, a narrow and windy one. After driving for about one kilometre, you will come to a marketplace, with ample parking space available, on the left. It is an old market, but renovation is now underway, although goods are still being sold on the sidewalks in front of and along the perimeter of it.
       The first interesting sight you will encounter there is a stand selling jaeng lawn, a local speciality sold in seaside provinces (it can also be found not only in Chon Buri but also in towns on the western coast like Hua Hin and Cha-am). It is made of finely chopped fish meat, mixed with fresh curry paste and ground coconut, and seasoned to make it salty and slightly sweet with a chilli bite. Shredded kaffir lime leaf is scattered on the mixture, which is then shaped into pieces that are put on skewers for grilling. Vendors cook them on a grill in the early morning and keep selling them until they run out around noon. This snack is not all that easy to find, so when you do find it, buy.
       Nearby is a stand that sells semi-dried rays. The type sold there are called pla krabane nok, ("bird ray"), and are rather small, about 30.5-cm in diameter. The reason behind its name is that it likes to leap above the surface of the seawater and glide along for short distances. The meat of the "wings" (the pectoral fins) of the fish is tender although rather dark in colour, and people who live near the sea like it very much. They cut it into pieces, then dry it in the sun for a day. It is delicious when fried and eaten with rice, and it is inexpensive. Half a kilogramme costs only 100 baht and is enough for several days' consumption.
       On the soi next to the market, fresh and dried fish as well as fresh shrimp and prawns are sold. One particularly interesting item is fresh shrimp pickled in nam pla (fish sauce). The old woman who sells it is an expert at pickling shrimp this way, and makes them specially for sale. In the old days, Thais liked to eat them with steaming-hot khao tom, or rice soup.
       About 300 metres away from the market, across from the nearby pier, is a small store where a grandmotherly-looking woman sells nam pla from Rayong. The brand name is Erawan, and the product comes from a small factory that still makes the condiment the old-fashioned way, a process that takes eight months. It smells delicious, and costs only 30 baht a bottle.
       This is only the briefest sampling of what is available in the area of this Chon Buri market.
       A market that is best to visit in the late afternoon or evening is Nong Mon market, on the main road to Pattaya. The fresh produce area is deep inside the market, far from the road. Late in the day, in front of the fresh market area, meaty crabs of the type called poo ma (horse crab) are sold. They are kept in big basins, the water in which is oxygenated by means of pumps working continuously to keep the crabs alive.
       These ubiquitous crabs are available in many sizes and price ranges, with the cheapest ones going for 280 baht a kilogramme. Customers can eat them right away, because there is a steaming service that cooks the crabs on the premises and serves them with a spicy dipping sauce. They are certainly fresh, but sometimes the meat isn't too firm, because after being kept for even a day it becomes a little soft, unlike meat from crabs fresh from the sea.
       Around the sides of Nong Mon market are interesting stalls selling different kinds of fish just brought in from the sea by fishermen. Buyers can never be sure that the kind of fish they want is there, because not all types are caught every day, but they will probably not be disappointed if they are looking for pla seekoon, a mackerel species similar to the popular pla thoo, but bigger. Its tasty, firm meat is perfect for frying and topping with nam pla or chilli sauce.
       On their lucky days, buyers may find pla chome ngahm and/or pla nuan jan, both of which are scaleless types of fish with succulent meat that makes good kaeng som or kaeng pa, or which can be fried and served with chilli sauce poured over it. When people are fortunate enough to find these fish, they don't haggle over the price but buy a plastic box and some ice from a vendor, pack the fish inside, and rush it home.
       Around the sidelines of the market are vendors selling sweets and special local dishes. The khao tom with fried shellfish is definitely worth a try.
       Early in the morning, beginning at about half past seven, in a different part of Nong Mon market's wet market section is an area where dried seafood is sold along with breakfast foods that include curry and rice, kui tio pla (noodles with fish), khao tom, coffee and sweet snacks and desserts.
       The prepared foods, which include curries and stir-fries, are really good, as can be seen from the large numbers of people who come to buy them and the lengths of time they are willing to wait to be served (there are tables and chairs set out for diners). Right nearby is a vendor whose pork noodles are tasty enough to be a true must, and in the middle of the market is a shop that sells khao tom pla (literally, fish in rice soup) made in the style typical of eateries in seaside areas. The rice grains are still firm rather than soft and mushy, and customers can choose between fresh fish, shrimp or squid.
       Mae Nit has been selling her hor moke (fish meat steamed in a spicy, curried coconut sauce together with herbs and takes the form of a custard packed in a smallish banana-leaf cup) in this market for more than 30 years. Seaside-style hor moke tends to be sweeter and softer than the versions sold in Bangkok and other places in the Central Region.
       Coffee, brewed the old-fashioned way with a long cloth bag, is available for those who want to start the day off with a glass or two. These two markets are only two among the many that inhabit Chon Buri, each with its own, individual selection of good stuff to eat that includes local dishes not found elsewhere.
       If you decide to do some exploring, you won't have to drive far, and a choice culinary adventure is guaranteed.

GOBBLING DOWN SAMUI

       Beyond sand and surf and new hotels across the lowlands and atop the hills, Koh Samui is also a good place for a tummy-challenging tour of the culinary world.
       Thanks to Citibank, I had a chance to try the food journey throughout the island, from local dishes and fusion to Mediterranean, Italian, creatively designed refreshments and sweet treats.
       Throughout the three-day trek through seven eateries, you require the ability to sample at least eight dishes per venue.
       Is it totally fun? Yes-with the help of digestive pills.
       Ideally, you'll able to spend time at each place, enjoying a lazy pace and the stunning sea views and welldesigned sea views and well designed decor while savourig good food.
       It's recommended to start with the local dishes at Krua Chao Baan on Bang Naam Jued Beach. In business for nearly 20 years, the seaside, openair restaurant is presented simply with atap-thatched shelters, but the delicious food is second to none and the prices are reasonable.
       The menu is extensive. Among the mouth-watering dishes are kaeng som pla kapong(sour soup with white snapper) , the Krua Chao Baan puffy omelette stuffed with minced shrimp, crab, squied and mushroom and wai phad sapparod(stir-fried octopus with pineapple).
       But those prove to be just warmups for the rest of the tour. For more seafood and Thai cuisine in a fine-dining experience with Thai classical music, there's Samui Seafood at the Muang Samui Spa Resort.
       Done up in Thai-style decor with wood predominant, its Thai dishes are prepared under the supervision of Amintra Sukarawan, the founder of the Royal Thai Culinary Centre.
       She's inherited the exquisite royal Thai cuisine and food carvings from her grandmother, ML Puang Tinakorn.
       Its thod mun koong (deep-fried shrimp patties) are formed in ring shape and skewered with lemongrass, to go well with mango and sesame dip.
       The most stunning dish, however, is gai satay(chicked satay with peanut sauce), where the sticks of checkens are served in a small, elephant-shaped terracotta stove filled with charcoal. If you want to take the terracotta elephant home, it's Bt1,200.
       After the heavy meals, take a break with afternoon tea and eleverly designed canapes at the design hotel Library on Chaweng Beach.
       At the cube-shaped inn with its spacious green lawn is the minimalist restaurant The Page, where you can sit in the air-conditioned area, in the open air or on a terrace overlooking the sea and an unusual swimming pool of red mosaic.
       I can recommed the smoked salmon with cantaloupe, tuna ricotta cheese, prawn cake ball, toasted bread with N'duja and the fruit skewer.
       Six Senses Hideaway Samui has been praised for its breathtaking views of the gulf and outlying islands. It's best to try refreshments while enjoying the sunset at Dining on the Rocks, located at the tip of the headland with a 270-degree view.
       Among the creations are hamachi sushi, lamb somtam, smoked salmon with pickled cucumber and hot lime ice cream.
       If you yearn for Italian cuisine in a romantic seaside setting, Olivio at the Baan Haad Ngam Resort is where most people go.
       Italian chef Luigi Fadda warmly welcomed us with a mixed starter of antipasto. Among the signature dishes are fettuccine seafood, salmon steak, baked snowfish with rosemary and garlic asd ink risotto with prawn and seafood.
       You should save room for dessert, because his tiramisu in a cup of coffee is terrific.
       Another option for a fantastic dinner is the Pier, right at the pier at Fisherman's Village. The two-storey, loft-style eatery was designed by noted architect Duangrit Bunnag and serves both Thai and European dished with nice presentations.
       After running the Mangrove restaurant next to Samui airport for seven years, French chef Yannick Tirbois and his wife Ilse Dumont joined with the Thai businessman who owns the Karmakamet Aromatic Hotel. They took over the Pier, adding more European dishes in the menu.
       The mixed seafood starter is a must, with laab gai(spicy chicked salad) , pad thai(stir-fried Thai noodles), deep fried herbed pork ribs and crispy softshell crab with curry powder.
       When night falls, up your beat at the Red Snapper Bar & Grill at the Chaweng Regent Beach Resort, which boasts live Latin music.
       The menu here focuses on Mediterranean cuisine, and of course, red snapper in an herbed crust is the signature dish.
       For starters, opt for grilled chichked on bamboo marinated in Moroccan spices or tuna carpaccio with balsamic and olive oil dressing. The roast duck breast with red wine sauce is also terrific.
       BE VERY, VERY HUNGRY
       Krua Chao Baan at Hua Thanon near Wat Sila-ngu is open daily from 10am to 10pm. Call(077)418 589 or (089) 009 5560.
       Samui Seafood Restaurant at the Muang Samui Spa Resort is open daily from 11am to midnight. Call(077)429 700 or visit www.MuangSamui.com.
       The Page at the Library Hotel is open daily from 6:30am to 11pm. Call(077) 422 767-8 or visit www.TheLibrary.name.
       Dining on the Rocks at the Six Senses Hideaway Samui is open daily from 6.30pm to 10.30pm. Call(077) 245 678 or visit www.SixSenses.com.
       Olivio at the Baan Haad Ngam Resort is open daily from 11am to 10.30pm. Call(077) 231 500-8 visit www.BaanHaadNgam.com.
       The Pier at Fisherman's Village is open daily from 11am to midnight. Call(077) 430 680.
       The Red Snapper Bar&Grill at the Chaweng Regent Beach Resort is is open daily from 5pm to 1am. Call(077) 422 008 or visit www.ChawengRegent.com

MALAYSIA MINISTER PROTECTS LOCAL DISHES

       Malaysia will lay claim to its signature dishes like laksa and chicken rice which are being "hijacked" by other countries, the tourism minis6ter said according to a recent report.
       Those on the list include the fragrant coconut milk rich 'nasi lemak', spicy soup noodle 'laksa' and pork ribs herbal soup 'bak kut teh', Tourism Minister Ng Yen Yen said according to the Star newspaper.
       "We caanot continue to let other countries hijack our food. Chili crab is Malaysian. We have to lay claim to our food," she was quoted as saying.
       "In the next three months, we will identify certain key dishes [to declare as Malaysian]. We have identified laksa...all types of laksa, nasi lemak and bak kut teh," she added. Ng said her ministry would announce a strategy on how to brand the dishes as Malaysian.
       "That is Part Two. We cannot reveal it yet, but we will let you know soon," she said.
       Ng did not name which countries were hijacking the dishes, which are popular around the world and particularly in neighbouring Singapore and Indonesia.
       Her comments came amid a diplomatic row with Indonesia, where protecters have accused Malaysia of stealing its cultural heritage.
       The dispute erupted in Indonesia in August after erroneous reports emerged that Malaysia had screened that Malaysia had screened tourism advertisements featuring the traditional "pendet" dance of Indonesia's Hindu-majority Bali island.
       The ad was actually a promotion for a Discovery Channel programme, but despite an apology from the network, protesters vowing to "crush Malaysia" have burned national flags and thrown rotten eggs at the embassy in Jakarta.

       The comments cameamid a diplomatic row with Indonesia where protesters have accused Malaysia of stealing its cultural heritage.

FOND PHUKET FAREWELL FOR FLAMBOYANT FOODIE FLOYD

       Original celebrity chef left behind many memories for staff, friends and patrons alike after falling in love with the Land of Smiles By Phil Teese
       Celebrity chef Keith Floyd, who died of a heart attack in the UK last week, was planning to live in Thailand so he could teach under-privileged teenagers how to cook.Floyd,65, who opened his Floyd's Brasserie at the Burasari Hotel on Phuket's Patong beachfront in 2007, loved Thailand, and it seems Thailand loved him. More than 70 friends and fans gathered at his restaurant on Thursday night to tell tales about him, and relive old memories of the larrikin who won hearts wherever he went.
       Most of the stories were about his outrageous outbursts, but there was also a serious side to the chef who started out as an army cook and ended up hosting 18 top-rating TV cooking programmes which were broadcast in more than 40 countries.
       A spokesman for the Burasari said Floyd spent three or four months a year on Phuket and was planning to move there permanently.
       "He wanted to be more actively involved in running the restaurant, and he wanted to do something to help underprivileged Thai teenagers," she said."He wanted to get involved in social responsibility activities to develop training and education schemes, and to teach young Thai people the cooking skills which could lead to future careers as professional chefs."
       Conor O'Leary, the Burasari's former residential manager, said Floyd was quirky, and always unpredictable.
       "Everywhere he went, he would buy a new mobile telephone and a new SIM card, but he would keep it switched off because he didn't want anyone calling him. If you wanted to talk to him on the phone, you would have to send someone to find him and tell him to turn on his phone. One impressed, and that was night he was in his hotel the end of the interroom when the room view."phone rang. He picked MrO'Leary said it up, abused the caller whenever Floyd was in for bothering him, and Phuket, he would sit at hung up.the entrance to the res"That happened taurant and personally three times, until finally welcome every single the receptionist rang guest as they arrived.and told him the caller "But he would never he kept hanging up on sign autographs or pose was his good friend,for pictures on their way Mick Jagger, wanting to in," he said.invite him to a party."MISSED: Keith Floyd doing "He always told them Mr O'Leary said one what he loved best.he would happily pose TVcrew came off for a photograph on second best after filming an interview their way out, but only if they enjoyed with him in the Phuket restaurant.their meal. It was his little way of getting "He cooked up a lobster, then threw feedback from his customers.it straight at the camera, leaving it "But he was very generous and he dripping in thermidor sauce.was always giving away bottles of "The cameraman was definitely not expensive champagne, for any excuse he could think up. If someone told him it was their first time in Thailand,that was good enough reason for a free bottle of champagne.
       "He wanted absolutely everyone who came into his restaurant to go away happy."
       Lily Udomkunnatum, the Burasari group's managing director, said life with Floyd always included copious servings of both tears and laughter.
       "One night when things were quiet,he ushered the whole seven tables of guests into the bar, and wrapped them in toilet paper. I was stunned, but in no time, everyone was up dancing and having a great time, and it was the most magical time," she said.
       "Floyd was always honest, sincere,and a true lover of life."
       Ms Lily said one night after a performance in Singapore, the cab driver taking her and Floyd back to their hotel recognised the celebrity chef, and started excitedly asking him questions.
       "The driver even pretended to lose his way so he could spend more time talking to Keith," she said.
       Phuket publican Howard DigbyJohns described Floyd as "shambolic,lusty and passionate about everything he did"."He had a beautiful Bentley car which was his pride and joy, and when he lost his licence for drink driving - he was seven times over the legal limit - he kept that car polished and shiny so people wouldn't know he had been disqualified from driving."
       Mr Digby-Johns said Floyd had been married four times, and each marriage had ended in divorce.
       "His life was a wonderful roller coaster ride. He met disaster and triumph frequently, and treated them both equally. He managed to hit all the extremes, and he did it with gusto."

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Smokers can hit the cafes again

       The Croatian government moved to loosen a controversial public smoking ban enforced only four months ago, after cafe owners complained it was crippling business.
       According to a new proposal, due in parliament later this month,smoking in cafes will be allowed in special spaces that must be larger than 10 square metres but must not cover more than 20 per cent of the overall premises.

Beginning a new chapter in life

       It was already half past one in the afternoon, but Chanpen Tongtim was still busy attending her lunch customers in a cafe in Silom. She served the hungry diners not only sandwiches and cups of coffee but also her sincere smile.
       "I really couldn't believe my ears when I first learned Chanpen was once found guilty of murder," said Delifrance's assistant operation manager, Dome Siriwannalert, who three years ago offered Chanpen a job at the eatery.
       Chanpen was, in fact, sentenced to death. It all began, she recalled, with a big argument with one of her friends, a human trafficker who lied to her about needing Chanpen's help to find a few girls to work as housekeepers. After Chanpen found out the truth, she attempted to ask her friend to release those poor girls. The quarrel led to a fight that unfortunately ended in homicide.
       The culprit's penalty was reduced from death to life imprisonment and several years later, she was granted a royal pardon, leaving her only 14 years in jail.
       At the age of 43, Chanpen was given her freedom back. But instead of feeling delighted, she conceded that at that time she had absolutely no idea where and how she could possibly start a new life.
       "When I first learned I was allowed to leave prison, I was thinking 'Why are they releasing me now?' I was 43 then,and I wondered what I could do and how I could find a job," said Chanpen,who is now 46.
       But with assistance from Dome and the Christian Prison Ministry Foundation,the lady was offered a job at Delifrance only a few days after being released.Since then, her responsibilities have grown to include looking after the cafe's customers, taking orders and preparing sandwiches and coffee as well as other dishes available on the menu.
       The assistant operation manager first started hiring former prisoners to work at Delifrance in 2005. Back then, he said,the organisation underwent a considerable structural change and a number of staff were suddenly needed.
       "I only had two days to find six or seven staff to work with us. Fortunately,I had a chance to discuss this issue with Ajarn Sunthorn [Sunthorn Sunthorntarawong, director of the Christian Prison Ministry Foundation]. The Christian Prison Ministry Foundation has been working with ex-prisoners for so many years and it turned out that Ajarn Sunthorn was happy to help me. He said he had always wanted to provide former prisoners opportunities to return and live new lives in society," Dome explained.
       Eight people were sent to Delifrance by the Christian Prison Ministry Foundation in the first week. Some of them were assigned to the kitchen to prepare pastries, steaks and salads, while others became responsible for attending to diners at the cafe's front counter.
       Prior to this, however, Dome invited staff members from the foundation to talk to all restaurant managers in order to make sure the former inmates had changed and that they were not going to become repeat offenders. To make sure, all of them underwent behavioural and emotional rehabilitation programmes before being unshackled.
       And to Dome, it is indeed a win-win situation."We, as a restaurant operator,are happy that we have staff working for us.And the staff are also happy to have a job and earn a living."
       According to Dome,most of the former convicts who work with Delifrance were put in jail due to their involvement with drugs. Nonetheless,once they are hired as the restaurant's temporary staff, they are entitled to receive 25 baht per hour and are required to work for no less than eight hours per day. In the case of full-time employees, they receive around 6,000 to 7,000 baht per month plus social security benefits.
       While former prisoners elsewhere often encounter challenges upon release from prison, especially in terms of their reintegration into society, those who work at Delifrance on the other hand rarely become victims of discrimination,disdain or social prejudice. It seems as if no one is concerned about their past.
       "Everyone here is treated equally,"Dome commented."We develop trust among each other and we do not care what each person has been through as long as they can work for us and do not cause any trouble."
       "Some of my colleagues once asked me what charge I was found guilty of. I thought there was no need to lie so I told them the truth. They said they could not believe I was capable of killing somebody. And when they learned I had spent 14 years in jail, they said I had been in prison for so long that I must be like a kid who knows nothing about the world outside. That explains why everybody has always been willing to teach me everything I need to know," said Chanpen.
       Although former inmates aren't treated with prejudice by their coworkers, it is inevitable that they sometimes feel inferior to others in terms of their personal, educational or social backgrounds. Some of them, Dome observed, are very worried that other people would find out that they had once been labelled as criminals.
       "The only thing I can tell them is to not worry about things in the past.Passengers on the bus, people in the department store or customers in the restaurant will never know they were once prison inmates. So what they need to do is to be happy, smile to customers and enjoy their work."
       Since 2005, almost 20 ex-prisoners have been recruited by Delifrance. However, at present only two of them remain.
       The rest left after being offered better career opportunities.One now works for a leading supermarket chain as a cashier officer.Another now heads the fresh vegetables section of a supermarket while some are with various department stores. Many of them decided to pursue nonformal education.
       As a project initiator,Dome is pleased to see these former prisoners grab the opportunity to start a new chapter in their lives. One of the things he has learned from helping these former criminals is not to judge people by their past, and their intention to change should in fact be used as an indicator to determine whether or not they deserve to be given a second chance.
       "Just let bygones be bygones. Of course, everyone has done something wrong in the past. Ex-prisoners are also human beings, so I do not see any reason why they should not be given equal rights.Let's focus on today, not yesterday,"Dome said.
       Though it has now been three years since Chanpen first started working with Delifrance, she can now still remember very well the day she was asked to fill out a job application form. From being a lady who lacked self-confidence, who did not even know which bus that she could catch to work and who returned home and cried after the first day at work, Chanpen is now one of the most respected senior staff at the restaurant.Her English communication skills have significantly improved to the level that she can take orders from foreign customers. In April last year, she was even awarded "Employee of the Month".
       "If you ask me how I feel about what I did in the past, I would say I deeply regret it. It was something I never wanted to happen. But now, I have started my life anew. I have changed. To me, this is a wonderful new beginning."

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

GFA to double outlet total in five years

       Global Franchise Architects (GFA), the Swiss owner of Coffee World and other food and beverage chains, is set to double its business size to 200 outlets by 2013.
       About half the additional outlets will belong to Coffee World, with the rest under its six diversified brands: The Cream & Fudge Factory, Pizza Corner,New York 5th Avenue Deli, The Donut Baker, Juisomania and Conizza. Each outlet will require an investment of 2-6 million baht, depending on store size.Each will create six to 10 new jobs.
       "We currently have the capability to open at least 10 outlets per month, which would double our size in one year. We are confident of moving faster than in the past because our people, product variety, factories and IT solutions are all ready. However, our biggest challenge is to find good locations," said Fred Mouawad, the company's chairman and CEO.
       Coffee World is the only chain to have its own coffee roasting factory in Thailand.
       Mr Mouawad wants to speed its expansion from next year because he is optimistic the economy will improve slightly and inquiries from potential franchisees have increased. The downturn has not hit the food business too hard because people still have to eat, he said.
       To attract investors, the company has cut the franchisee fee for food and beverage brands by 20% until the year-end.
       GFA operates 105 outlets nationwide.About 75% are company-owned and the rest franchised. In the near future, the ratio will slide to 60:40.
       Sales are not expected to grow this year, for the first time in 12 years in Thailand, because of the tourism slump.
       Mr Mouawad aims to counter this with more local promotion and lowerpriced products.
       GFA plans to introduce its new coffee outlet format serving a full range of bakery items at CentralWorld in the coming months. The company will spend 6 million baht for this new outlet.
       GFA operates 210 stores under nine food and beverage brands in 10 countries.Thailand is its biggest market with 105 outlets, followed by India with 75. The rest are in Vietnam, Indonesia, Dubai,Bangladesh and Oman.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

DESTINATION PANCAKE

       While studying in the US, actor Chartayodom "chai" Hiranyubthiti was a regular customer at IHOP, as the International House of Pancakes is known for short, and became something of an expert on its classic combos and variety of desserts. Meanwhile, Wisarut Sriratanaprapas, a Thai student in Melbourne, used to join the long queue in front of the Pancake Parlour, a place of pilgrimage for Australia's pancake fans.
       Chai, Wisarut and three of their pals share such a passion for pancakes that when they decided to start a business, their choice of venture as logically a cafe with the pancake as the star.
       Now they're aiming to make the Pancake Cafe in new mall Nawamin ci6ty Avenue Bangkok's favourite destination for crepes. Decorated in pastel shades of pink, gold and brown with comfy sofas upholstered in floral patterns, the parlour offers hotcakes doled up as both savoury fare and sweet treats.
       "There is no cafe specialising in pancakes in Bangkok, so we want to test the waters. Many people think it's comfort dessert that's easily made at home. In fact, the pancake mix you find in the supermarkets ostly comprises artificial ingredients. Here, at our cafe, we use ony fresh ingredients and we make the batter everyday," says Wisarut, a graduate in marketing and commerce from Melbourne's Deakin University.
       None of five partners are trained in cooking or pastry-making but have learned by doing, reading books and surfing the Net.
       'Initially, we wanted to buy a franchise of the Pancake Parlour but right now, this Melbourne family-owned business is not interested in expanding intofurther franchises. So we decided to do it on our own. We've come up with a pancake that is thick, fluffier and less sweet and has a pleasant odour of milk and butter," adds Wisarut.
       It took about six months for these pancake lovers to come up with a batter that goes well with th selected syrups and vanilla ice cream. At Bt120 to Bt220 a dish, prices a bit steep but the ingredients are , as Wisarut says, of the highest quality.
       "We use only the highest quality products to get the perfect combination. We never substitute our core products with lower-cost ingredients to save money. That would destroy our products. Food presentation is also a core concern."
       As the restaurant, which has been open just one month and has yet to build a large clientele, the menu it not extensive. Three savoury dishes are offered at Bt220 a pop. Opt or the allday breakfast and you will get two butter-milk pancakes, grilled Vienna sausages and ham, fried egg and grilled potatoes. Other options are grilled veal sausages and pancakes served with gravy and vegetable salad, and pancakes topped with hot ham cheese.
       If a sweet threat is more to your liking, order an "Angel and Demon", two chocolate lava pancakes served with fresh strawberry, vanilla ice cream and whipped cream for Bt180. Girls might fall in love with "Sweet Dream", butter-milk pancakes topped with fresh strawberries and served with vanilla ice cream and whipped cream for Bt160.
       For a more classic taste, order "Good Days", buttermilk pancakes served with vanilla ice cream, maple sysrup and whipped with pieces of bananas and whipped cream and homemade butterscoth for Bt160.
       You can also customise your own dish wiht side orders. To get one more buttermilk pancake, just add Bt35 or pay the extra for Bt30 to upgrade from the buttermilk to chocolate pancake. One more scoop of vanilla ice cream costs Bt40 and an additional serving of chocolate chips is Bt35. Extra whipped cream and whipped butter cost Bt10 and Bt15 respectively.
       For drinks, you can choose from Lavazza coffees,
       Dilmah teas and smoothies such as peach and strawberry yoghurt. Fro those with a thirst, Wisarut proudly presents "Mrs Smith", fresh juice made with granny smith green apple topped with a salty Chinese plum. The taste is pleasing and not too sweet.
       While the granny smith appel originated in Australia from a chance seedling propagated by Maria Ann Smith hence the name of the apple Wisarut says he's named his drink after the Hollywood movie "Mr & Mrs Smith".
       "The fresh apple juice and the salty plum are a perfect blend. There's no sugar so you body can be as fit and firm as Angelina Joie's," he says with a smile.

       >> AT A GLANCE
       - The Pancake Cafe is in Nawamin City Avenue mall on KasetNawamin Road and is open daily from 11am to 9.30pm on weekdays and from 10.30am to 10pm on weekends.
       - Call (082) 796 4556.

Saturday, September 12, 2009

Patra sets sights on Beijing, Vienna

       Restaurant operator S&P Syndicate will open its first Patra restaurants in Beijing and Vienna by the fourth quarter of this year.

       The company is also studying the possible launch of a new overseas restaurant brand to capture the casual dinning segment, said Pravesvudhi Raiva, the company's president.
       He said that the opening of Patra restaurants in Beijing and Vienna would require investment of Bt15 million and Bt50 million respectively.
       S&P Global, the overseas investment arm of S&P Syndicate, will hold a 90-per-cent stake in the local joint venture set to open Patra restaurant in Beijing while the other 10 per cent would be held by Taiwanese investor Charles Hsueh. For Vienna in Austria, the investment will be directly allocated by S&P Global's two major subsidiaries based in the UK and Switzerland, S&P Restaurant UK and Thai Development.
       "There are currently about 30 Thai restaurants in Beijing. Anyway, they are not good representatives of Thai restaurants in the market," he said.
       Pravesvudhi said that there was no premium Thai restaurant in Beijing at this moment. The company thinks that Beijing will be a good starting point for the company in expanding its Patra restaurants into China in the near future.
       "We have studied such business opportunities in China for two years. We have seen a great potential to represent premium Thai restaurants in the market," he said.
       Pravesvudhi said that Vienna is also a potential bright market for Thai restaurants.
       "People in Vienna have high purchasing power. There are very few Thai restaurants in the market. Most of the Asian restaurants available in Vienna are Korean and Chinese," he said.
       He added that the company's policy was to open at least one Patra restaurant in many major cities abroad.
       "In addition to China, we are studying opportunities to open a Patra restaurant in India in the near future," said Pravesvudhi.
       S&P Global currently operates four Patra restaurants in England, one in Geneva and one in Switzerland.
       Vitoon Sila-on, senior vice present for domestic operations, said that the company would focus on the expansion of S&P restaurants domestically.
       "We have already opened 18 new S&P restaurants domestically in the first half of this year, and between 25 and 30 new outlets will be opened by the second half, bringing the total number of restaurants to between 340 and 350 y by the end of this year," he said.
       He added that the company would focus on opening small bakery shops with total space of about 30 square metres serving baked goods and quick-meal products. About five big restaurant outlets occupying a total space of more than 200 square metres and having between 70 and 80 seats will be opened this year.
       "Our policy is to keep expanding S&P restaurants domestically to utilise the production capacities of our food and bakery factories and lower their costs," said Vitoon.
       He said that including new restaurant outlets, the company achieved 10 per cent growth in the first half of this year, which is lower than the 14-per-cent growth targeted earlier in the year. However, same-store growth was less than 5 per cent in the first half of the year.
       "We want to open about 40 new S&P restaurants domestically in all potential locations such as gas stations, hospitals and in front of universities. We will focus more on expanding our restaurants into the provinces," said Vitoon.
       S&P Syndicate expects to achieve Bt4 billion in total sales this year, including its overseas business.

Friday, September 11, 2009

Surprising delights

       If you like the idea of gourmet cooking that's imaginative and excitingly tasty,there's a promotion in Bangkok next week you won't want to miss.
       Brian McKenna,Irish-born wunderkind who began his cooking career at the age of 14, will next week take charge of the kitchen at the Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Hotel's Terra Roku restaurant from September 17-19- a three-day festival that we can safely say will be unique in Bangkok.
       Brian McKenna has worked in many of the UK's Michelin-starred restaurants including the one-star Le Poussin in the New Forest, Southern England, and the celebrated Gavroche three-star restaurant in Mayfair.
       More recently, he has been creating a culinary stir at Beijing's fashionable Blu Lobster, receiving accolades from local foodies and commentators who've been calling him Beijing's most famous/most original chef.
       There were, it must be said, one or two voices of dissent, because originality is not such a great virtue in everyone's book. A few diners who expected more traditional offerings and were unprepared for Brian's cooking style made their views known in the comment columns of the local gourmet magazines.
       This may well be because of the way he has taken to the developments in molecular gastronomy, which, in recent years has inspired chefs around the world.It's not simply the latest cooking fad and you don't have to be young and trendy to get it; it arose from the understanding that, as well as an art, cooking is a science.
       Cooking causes molecular changes in food. Different cooking methods and combinations of ingredients can improve flavours and transform textures, often unexpectedly. For example, by spraying neat gin onto to a cube of tonic water jelly and lemon sorbet, Brian makes an excellent gin and tonic you can eat.
       Many of the developments developed by molecular gastronomy like foams,emulsions, frozen air and lowtemperature slow-cooking have now been endorsed by mainstream chefs.
       The most famous names associated with molecular gastronomy are those of Ferran Adria, whose El Bulli restaurant in Catalonia is regularly voted "world's best restaurant"; while Heston Blumenthal's Fat Duck restaurant on the River Thames is often the runner-up.
       Ferran Adria has said that he likes food that will surprise and delight his customers, and Brian McKenna's menu at the Grand Millennium Sukhumvit is sure to do that. His choice of interpretations is by no means extreme, and anyone who enjoys Thai food will be familiar with the pleasures of bringing many different taste sensations together in one dish.
       The dinner menu starts with watermelon gazpacho, foie gras with caramelised rice, and oyster with passion fruit, to be followed by seasonal leaves and vegetables in a salad of 42 ingredients (count them!) with hazelnut mayonnaise,chardonnay jelly and egg slow-cooked at 55 degrees.
       The main courses are a Thai-spiced crab risotto with avocado ice cream,tempura of claw and lemongrass bubbles.The fish course is sauteed black cod with cauliflower puree, Moroccan spiced sugar and granny smith apple; and the meat course is beef, slow-cooked at 60 degrees, with spinach parmesan and egg ravioli, fondant potato and red wine sauce.
       Desserts begin with seasonal Thai fruit with champagne jelly, passion fruit curd and watermelon foam, followed by pineapple and mango ravioli with Sichuan pepper ice cream, garden flowers and Thai coconut soup.
       The meal ends with coffee and sweets:a peanut butter "hamburger", wasabi and black sesame truffle, chocolate tart,and strawberry with celery.
       Chef Brian McKenna presents his exclusive eight-course tasting menu at the Grand Millennium Sukhumvit Hotel's Terra Roku restaurant from September 17 to 19. The price is 2,500 baht per person. Advance booking is highly recommended. For more information and reservations, please call 02-204-4165 or email fb@grandmillenniumskv.com.

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Foie gras or caviar ice cream?

       French chef Philippe Faur believes his delicacies are more than just desserts. He dares to make savoury ice cream.
       His caviar, foie gras and Roquefort flavours accompany dishes at his restaurant and inspire menus at a range of highly-regarded establishments elsewhere in France.
       "I began making savoury ice creams in 2002, just to see how it would go, and I told myself it was the way to go," said Faur,39, the son and grandson of icecream makers.
       Faur's menu offers all kinds of colours and combinations, a hotchpotch to surprise the taste buds and flood the palate with a harmony of flavours - beef with Roquefort ice cream, duck breast ravioli with foie gras ice cream, young pigeon and foie gras with truffle ice cream and sea bream with caviar sorbet.
       On meat or fish, the frozen cream melts like a sauce. At Temptations, his restaurant at Saint-Girons in the Ariege region in southwest France, most diners sample it straight from a spoon dipped into the plate.
       He now offers a menu with hundreds of flavours: champagne, mustard, ginger,lavender, liquorice, avocado and saffron as well as the classic vanilla, chocolate and strawberry.
       For his foie gras, he turned to a producer from the Perigord region, Rougie,which supplies the great chefs, and for the caviar he went to the renowned Petrossian company.
       In Lyon in 2007, his foie gras ice cream won him a top international award for innovation.
       "It's innovative. It can be shocking,but 95 percent of customers love it,"said chef Jean-Marc Granger, who hails from a Michelin-starred restaurant, a man who has the waistline for the job and a gourmet's grin.
       "We came to try the foie gras ice cream and we'll be back," said Armand Anglade, celebrating his 35th wedding anniversary with his wife."You can recognise the taste absolutely, the flavour of foie gras, it goes well with meat."
       Faur lays claim to a manufacturing process he says is unique in France, and Europe. To create a high quality delicacy,he says he is rigorous in his choice of fruit and other ingredients and uses only unpasteurised full cream milk from a nearby farm.
       Each day in the afternoon, Cecile Soucasse-Bareille delivers only milk taken fresh from the cows that morning.
       The success of Faur's ice creams has also been good business for this dairy farm which is guaranteed to sell half its output, a godsend for an industry in crisis.
       "Ninety-nine percent of ice creams aren't made from milk, but from milk powder and water. Here we go for quality,in the traditional fashion. The big companies make edible products for the least cost.
       "Us, we take two days to make an ice cream; them, two hours," said Faur.
       "For now, we don't want to get too big. We want a measured growth, to keep our soul and our quality," said Faur, who employs 14 people at his workshop, in addition to the restaurant staff.
       His latest creation is wasabi ice cream from the Japanese condiment, and in the meantime he is working on anchovy.
       "We tried porcini mushrooms and bethmale [a local cheese] but it wasn't satisfactory," said Faur, a big man with a round face who honed his craft in Paris, at the Lenotre and Bellouet schools.
       For next year, rather than an original new flavour, Faur said he is planning "a worldwide innovation"- a sorbet containing 95 percent fruit.

Monday, September 7, 2009

SUKI DINERS TO BE SERVED BY ROBOTS

       Diners at MK Restaurants - Thailand's biggest chain of suki restaurants - will soon be served by "robotic service agents" instead of human waiters and waitresses.
       Deploying robots to serve the food is MK's latest move to impress its customers with a big IT project. It plans to launch a trial with a first batch of 10 robots within six to 10 months.
       Managing director Rit Thirakomen said MK would spend Bt10 million on developing the first 10 robotic service agents, or Bt1 million each. They would pilot a new food-serving feature, the objectives of which were to increase customer satisfaction at MK Restaurants and encourage local development of commercial robots.
       "We will trial one 'fleet' of 10 robots which will rotate throughout more than 300 branches. To deploy the robots to serve food, we will need to redesign and renovate the floor plan of each branch to allow the robots to walk smoothly. All the robots will be locally researched and developed as we want to support the local robot industry," Rit said.
       The company is also planning to invest in two other IT projects that are aimed at increasing customer satisfaction and improving its productivity. They are a member card project and an inventory system, both based on radio frequency identification (RFID) technology.
       Rit said the company planned to enhance the good relationship between MK Restaurants and its customers by issuing RFID-based member cards. In this way, existing customers will immediately be recognised in any branch and details revealed such as their favourite dishes.
       The new RFID-equipped member cards will replace about 1 million existing member cards.
       "With the smarter member cards, we will be able to treat our regular customers with the same standard of service as soon as they come in, even at different branches. Currently, we only know they are cardholding customers when billing, because we ask for a member card for giving discounts. With the RFID cards, our members will get special treats wherever they visit," he said.
       However, because the new cards will involve more private information, such as customers' tastes and favourite dishes, the company will be more concerned about privacy issues and it may launch the service on the basis of permission granted. In any case, the card project will follow the arrival of the robots.
       "The estimated cost of implementing the RFID member cards is about Bt30 million to Bt40 million. If we wanted to do it straight away, it would cost Bt50 million to Bt60 million - so we're waiting for the price to come down to meet our budget," Rit said.
       Last but not least is a plan to implement RFID technology to increase the efficiency of the company's inventory.
       Rit said an RFID system would replace an existing manual system that used stickers for cycling materials - mostly fresh products - in the company's inventory.
       Since food quality and safety is a big challenge for any food business, the efficiency of inventory turnaround in a company like MK is very important, Rit said. There are about 500 items, or stock-keeping units, in the company's inventory, with a time range of between three and four days. In the case of fresh vegetables, they must be in stock for no more than one day.
       "We plan to improve our inventory system with new technology. It will possibly be RFID, but we also have our eyes on a barcode system. We are in a research and development process and we expect to be ready to implement it in the near future," Rit said.
       MK Restaurants has been investing in IT every year for almost a decade. Its minimum annual investment budget is Bt20 million to Bt30 million for maintenance of its IT systems, including all back-office functions such as accounting, reporting, human resources, analyses, logistics and daily operations. Investment in the new IT projects, from robots to RFID technology, is extra.
       Earlier, the restaurants made a highlight of a personal digital assistant (PDA)-based ordering system, which allowed the improvement of service times in food ordering. This created a lot of customer satisfaction, Rit said.
       Each regularly-sized restaurant with a serving staff of about 40 people was given about 10 PDA units, access points and a server that together cost about Bt250,000 per restaurant. The system was able to save about 3 to 6 per cent in operating costs over a six-month period. Over a year, the electronic-ordering system was able to break even.
       The restaurant chain also invested in global-positioning systems installed in all of its 110 trucks to improve its logistics management. In this way the company has saved By2 million in fuel costs per year.

Thursday, September 3, 2009

Burger joints add wine to the menu

       Fast-food customers are hearing something new as they order burgers, pizza and all things fried:Would you like wine with that?
       No one's selling cases of McMerlot just yet, but a number of so-called "quickserve" restaurants are adding beer and wine to the menu, partly to boost sales but also with an eye to amping up the ambiance.
       "We simply wanted to create a different kind of dining experience," says Jeff Harvey, CEO and president of Burgerville,a 39-unit chain in the Northwest which recently added wine and beer to one of its restaurants in Vancouver, Washington.
       The trend comes at a time when "quick serve" or "quick casual" restaurants a restaurant that has counter service but aspires to offer something more than typical takeout - are looking to attract cash-strapped diners searching for cheaper options, but not willing to give up the amenities of full-service restaurants.
       "If you're more of an upscale fast food restaurant and you're trying to trade upon that image as more of a premium product, wine really fits in with that image," says David Henkes, vice president of the Chicago-based market research firm Technomic.
       Among the quick serve restaurants selling alcohol is Denver-based Chipotle Mexican Grill, which sells beer and margaritas.
       Meanwhile, Seattle-based Starbucks Corp. announced in July that it will change the name of one of its existing stores in Seattle - to 15th Avenue Coffee and Tea - and begin serving wine and beer as well as coffee and tea.
       For Burgerville, wine and beer was a logical next step in their programme of using local ingredients to create monthly dishes based on seasonal ingredients.
       There was some resistance from customers who didn't want the 48-yearold chain to change. But "for the most part everybody's been very favourable toward this. The guests have been surprised, but very pleased with the idea,"Harvey says.
       Sales are up at the Vancouver restaurant selling beer and wine, but says Harvey,"That wasn't our motivation.My measure of success is really more the dialogue that's happening at the tables."
       At the three-location Shake Shack in New York City (part of the Danny Meyer empire that also includes Union Square Cafe and Gramercy Tavern), owners decided to sell beer and wine when the first restaurant opened at Madison Square Park five years ago.
       "Shake Shack is about coming together, hanging out in the modern version of that old roadside burger stand,"says managing partner Randy Garutti."We felt that beer and wine was a crucial part of who we are. It was just a part of keeping people at the Shack to hang out, not one of those fast-food joints that has uncomfortable chairs so you leave."
       The Shack even has its own beer,Shack Meister Ale, created by Brooklyn Brewery, as well as wines including Shack Chard and Shack Shiraz.
       And if you want something a bit more upscale with that burger, you can have a half bottle of Bordeaux-style Opus One for $99(3,300 baht), not a bad price since a full bottle of the '05 retails for up to $200(6,800 baht).
       Like Burgerville, Shake Shack's plans to serve beer and wine drew concerns it would create problems, particularly since the restaurant is in a park.
       "Of course, the opposite is true,"Garutti says."People hung out longer and made the park the safest it's been."
       Serving beer and wine isn't a step to take lightly. Restaurants need to obtain a license, which can be a complex and expensive process, and the servers must be 21 or older and trained to serve alcohol.
       At Burgerville, for instance, officials are considering offering alcohol at other locations, though they already know there are some where it won't work,partly due to the layout of the restaurants.Their system involves keeping wine and beer sales separate from food.
       A pioneer in the burgers-n-Burgundy movement is Taylor's Automatic Refresher, a three-location chain in Northern California.
       The quick-serve restaurant, founded by winemaker Joel Gott and his brother,Duncan, 10 years ago, is known as a place where you can get a hearty burger,onion rings and a half bottle of such Napa Valley aristocrats as Shafer Vineyards.
       "It's just a mellow place to go," says operations manager Staci Raymond.
       On a recent afternoon, Sean Brown,CEO of the Internet advertising site BuzzHub, was enjoying a glass of red at the Taylor's in San Francisco's restored Ferry Building while discussing business with a friend. He liked the combination.
       "It's a comfortable way of enjoying an adult beverage with an adult conversation," he says.